New PSU
- twilight17
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New PSU
Okay, so...
I've ordered a PC Power & Cooling S61EPS 610W PSU:
This one to be exact.
and I was wondering if it's compatible with my current system.
The current PSU I have right now is (it's the stock one from HP):
This crappy one
What I've wanting to know is since the PC Power & Cooling PSU is EPS12V, and my current PSU is ATX12V, are they compatible?
Comparing my current PSU to the PC Power & Cooling one, I see the PC Power & Cooling PSU has all the connectors I need. Including A 24-Pin main connector and a 4-pin 12V (it also has an 8-pin 12V)
It seems like everything should be okay, but any confirmation?
Thanks.
I've ordered a PC Power & Cooling S61EPS 610W PSU:
This one to be exact.
and I was wondering if it's compatible with my current system.
The current PSU I have right now is (it's the stock one from HP):
This crappy one
What I've wanting to know is since the PC Power & Cooling PSU is EPS12V, and my current PSU is ATX12V, are they compatible?
Comparing my current PSU to the PC Power & Cooling one, I see the PC Power & Cooling PSU has all the connectors I need. Including A 24-Pin main connector and a 4-pin 12V (it also has an 8-pin 12V)
It seems like everything should be okay, but any confirmation?
Thanks.
- nullsquared
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I have that exact PSU along with it's sister, the 750W Silencer - freaking crazy beast, PC Power & Cooling are the best you can get, hands down.
Anyways, I'd sya it's 100% compatible. EPS12V has all of the standard ATX12V connectors, so you're all good. The only problem might be if you're using a non-standard motherboard that doesn't have a standard 24-pin connector. I've heard this tends to happen quite a bit with prebuilt machines, though I don't have any information on which ones or if it is still happening. I doubt your HP not being standard, though.
... Of course, assuming you're using the stock HP motherboard and what-not
Edit:
Scratch what I said about the non-standard motherboards, if that's the PSU you're currently using then you have a fully standard setup and nothing to worry about.
Anyways, I'd sya it's 100% compatible. EPS12V has all of the standard ATX12V connectors, so you're all good. The only problem might be if you're using a non-standard motherboard that doesn't have a standard 24-pin connector. I've heard this tends to happen quite a bit with prebuilt machines, though I don't have any information on which ones or if it is still happening. I doubt your HP not being standard, though.
... Of course, assuming you're using the stock HP motherboard and what-not
Edit:
Scratch what I said about the non-standard motherboards, if that's the PSU you're currently using then you have a fully standard setup and nothing to worry about.
- twilight17
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- twilight17
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Okay well Newegg is still processing the order (holidays then the weekend), but I would like to know if this PSU is better. It's 650W and has a couple more amps.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817139005
Thanks
(Please reply soon, just in case I want to cancel the order. :p)
EDIT: Also on this Corsair PSU it has 2 8-Pin PCI-E connectors useful when upgrading later, compared to the PC Power & Cooling which has 2 6-pin PCI-E. Someone said 1 of the PCI-E for the PC P&C is 8-Pin though, is this true?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817139005
Thanks
(Please reply soon, just in case I want to cancel the order. :p)
EDIT: Also on this Corsair PSU it has 2 8-Pin PCI-E connectors useful when upgrading later, compared to the PC Power & Cooling which has 2 6-pin PCI-E. Someone said 1 of the PCI-E for the PC P&C is 8-Pin though, is this true?
- nullsquared
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Yes, that Corsair 650W is definitely extremely nice. It definitely rivals the PC P&C 610W ... I'd say its even better. Really, the two major companies for highest-quality power supplies are PC Power & Cooling and Corsair, so if you have the 10$ more, do go for that Corsair.
About the 6 + 2 pin PCI Express x16 connectors, I don't quite remember what the PC P&C unit had when I installed it. I believe it was only 6 pins. Its big sister, the 750W Silencer (what I have in this rid, the 610W is in my bro's rig) has two 8-pin and two 6-pin
So, to conclude, yes, definitely go for that Corsair 650W.
About the 6 + 2 pin PCI Express x16 connectors, I don't quite remember what the PC P&C unit had when I installed it. I believe it was only 6 pins. Its big sister, the 750W Silencer (what I have in this rid, the 610W is in my bro's rig) has two 8-pin and two 6-pin
So, to conclude, yes, definitely go for that Corsair 650W.
- twilight17
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Well, as much as I'd like to, I can't. I also ordered a EVGA 9600GT (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814130360) and that rose in price right after I ordered it. It's $104.99 right now and when I ordered it, it was $89.99. Too much of a price difference. Also, I'm probably only going to run 1 card at once, not an SLI or Crossfire rig (thanks to my budget)
It does have an 8-pin PCI-E connector: http://www.pcpower.com/power-supply/sil ... ps12v.html
Hmmm...
It does have an 8-pin PCI-E connector: http://www.pcpower.com/power-supply/sil ... ps12v.html
Hmmm...
- twilight17
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Okay well I'm just going to reorganized my thoughts and how much money I have to spend. I cancelled the order and I'm going to see where I can get the best deals.
Another question though.. Is there any difference between these cards?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814130360
and
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... P3-N861-TR
I notice one is slimmer and it's OpenGL 2.1 - should I go for this one?
Thank you!
Another question though.. Is there any difference between these cards?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814130360
and
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... P3-N861-TR
I notice one is slimmer and it's OpenGL 2.1 - should I go for this one?
Thank you!
- twilight17
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- nullsquared
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The PC Power and Cooling 610W is definitely a beast, you don't have to get that Corsair. But if you've got money to spare (which is seemingly not the case here
), then the Corsair would be a better choice.
As for the GPUs, they seem exactly the same except one is a slightly newer revision. In all honestly, I'd say get the slim one just because it's a newer revision, I really see nothing else different about it... I've been out of the GPU loop for quite a bit since I built my rig last year, so I can't quite tell you what to get these days... I've heard the ATI 4850 and 4870 are the sweet spot.
As for the GPUs, they seem exactly the same except one is a slightly newer revision. In all honestly, I'd say get the slim one just because it's a newer revision, I really see nothing else different about it... I've been out of the GPU loop for quite a bit since I built my rig last year, so I can't quite tell you what to get these days... I've heard the ATI 4850 and 4870 are the sweet spot.
- twilight17
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- twilight17
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I have the Corsair PSU. I ordered from Amazon.com for $96 with a &30 Mail-in rebate! Great deal (Plus free shipping, came in 1 day).
I have also ordered http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814127333
It's on it's way.
Merry Christmas!
I have also ordered http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814127333
It's on it's way.
Merry Christmas!
- twilight17
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- nullsquared
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Cool 
9600GT for $96... *sigh* I remember when I got my Radeon X850XT for $180
I was so proud of it... as the years pass by, I can get something thats 10x more powerful for half the price 
Edit:
Wait, you're going to wait until Christmas to try them out? I really suggest you try them out right now, there's always the slight chance that something is DOA (dead-on-arrival) or malfunctioning, and you would want to get that sorted ASAP.
9600GT for $96... *sigh* I remember when I got my Radeon X850XT for $180
Edit:
Wait, you're going to wait until Christmas to try them out? I really suggest you try them out right now, there's always the slight chance that something is DOA (dead-on-arrival) or malfunctioning, and you would want to get that sorted ASAP.
- Praetorian
- Google Summer of Code Student

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Wow.... I just ordered a 7600GS AGP9600GT for $96...
My Google summer of code 2011 topic: Unit Testing Framework
My Google summer of code thread
My Google summer of code wiki page
My Google summer of code thread
My Google summer of code wiki page
- twilight17
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@Praetorian: I was lucky enough to buy a prebuilt HP that actually had a PCI-E 16x. When I was first buying this computer, I had no idea what to look for, so I just got lucky
@Nullsquared: Good point! But should I actually replace the parts in my computer to test them (or for the PSU should I just plug it into the wall to make sure it powers on?)
Thank you
@Nullsquared: Good point! But should I actually replace the parts in my computer to test them (or for the PSU should I just plug it into the wall to make sure it powers on?)
Thank you
- twilight17
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Okay I've actually just tested them and they both work wonderfully.. too bad I can't keep them in my system
I tested them with some Ogre examples and WOW! The FPS increase was insane. Rendering a box got over 1000FPS compared to my old card (7300GS which got around 150. Thank you for suggesting that by the way
Now I have to wait until my birthday to get a new CPU, as it's the current bottleneck in my system. (Intel Celeron D 346 3.06GHZ Single Core). My motherboard also is pretty bad, only supporting up to Pentium D. Any recommendations for cheap CPU & mobos? Thanks
Now I have to wait until my birthday to get a new CPU, as it's the current bottleneck in my system. (Intel Celeron D 346 3.06GHZ Single Core). My motherboard also is pretty bad, only supporting up to Pentium D. Any recommendations for cheap CPU & mobos? Thanks
- nullsquared
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Edit:
Nevermind the below, then
The thing with replacing a motherboard is that you might also need to replace the ram - I'm guessing you currently have DDR1, which is outdated.
Replace the components. First only replace the PSU and make sure you wire everything correctly. Try your machine. If it all works as expected, then you're PSU is good (you can do more extensive testing with a voltmeter and what-not, but this is not usually needed, just check your BIOS "PC Health" or whatever its named page).
Second, insert your 9600GT. Again, make sure everything is wired correctly, and run the machine. Go into the BIOS or safe-mode immediately, you don't want to load the previously installed video drivers. Uninstall the old video drivers and install the new ones.
Now try some games, etc, and see how things work. Considering you're only replacing the PSU and graphics card, not that much can go wrong other than a DOA.
Nevermind the below, then
Replace the components. First only replace the PSU and make sure you wire everything correctly. Try your machine. If it all works as expected, then you're PSU is good (you can do more extensive testing with a voltmeter and what-not, but this is not usually needed, just check your BIOS "PC Health" or whatever its named page).
Second, insert your 9600GT. Again, make sure everything is wired correctly, and run the machine. Go into the BIOS or safe-mode immediately, you don't want to load the previously installed video drivers. Uninstall the old video drivers and install the new ones.
Now try some games, etc, and see how things work. Considering you're only replacing the PSU and graphics card, not that much can go wrong other than a DOA.
- twilight17
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Surprisingly it uses DDR2. I currently have 2GB PC2-4200 (533mhz) Ram in here (highest speed this motherboard supports), but would like to be able to upgrade sometime later to DDR2-800 or higher.
Should I go for Intel Mobo + CPU or AMD Mobo + CPU combo?
I see AMD is cheaper but Intel generally seems more accepted than AMD.
Any suggestions? Thank you

Should I go for Intel Mobo + CPU or AMD Mobo + CPU combo?
I see AMD is cheaper but Intel generally seems more accepted than AMD.
Any suggestions? Thank you
- Kojack
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The bit I always find hardest is choosing a case. I'm about to build a new system, everything is chosen except for case and psu. Argh!
All the cases with 7+ 3.5inch bays are huge and expensive. My current choices (due to features and availability at my preferred store) are down to either the Thermaltake Armor+ for $299 or the Lian Li PC A7110 for $519. I've already got the older Thermaltake Armor case, the + model is even bigger and heavier. I think I'll go for the A7110 though, it's got 11 3.5inch drive bays (7 of them are sata hot swap) and doesn't have stupid glamour features like those useless front wing doors on the Armor.
All the cases with 7+ 3.5inch bays are huge and expensive. My current choices (due to features and availability at my preferred store) are down to either the Thermaltake Armor+ for $299 or the Lian Li PC A7110 for $519. I've already got the older Thermaltake Armor case, the + model is even bigger and heavier. I think I'll go for the A7110 though, it's got 11 3.5inch drive bays (7 of them are sata hot swap) and doesn't have stupid glamour features like those useless front wing doors on the Armor.
- twilight17
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Completely off topic.. but
@Kojack: That's way too much for a case, in my book. I would spend a maximum of $50 on a case.
On the other hand, the Antec Twelve Hundred is beautiful. (not that I would ever buy it)
@Kojack: That's way too much for a case, in my book. I would spend a maximum of $50 on a case.
On the other hand, the Antec Twelve Hundred is beautiful. (not that I would ever buy it)
- jacmoe
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Well, update your book then!twilight17 wrote:@Kojack: That's way too much for a case, in my book. I would spend a maximum of $50 on a case.
A case is vital!
I used to think of a case as just a case, but I changed my mind a while ago.
How easy your computer is upgraded depends on the case.
Cooling! It's depending on your computer casing: Fans, airflow, ...
Does the case feature 'noise insulation'?
Etc.
A case is vital.
And well worth spending the extra money on.
The case lives longer than what's inside of it.
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- twilight17
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Fine, I retract my statement: The Antec Nine Hundred is awesome.
but.. A good $50 case is This Cooler Master.

but.. A good $50 case is This Cooler Master.
- jacmoe
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Cooler Master is cool. 
How cool is this? ->
Cooler Master Centurion 590 (RC-590)
Or maybe a somewhat classier model:
Cooler Master CM 690
By the way: The Antec P182 really looks like something from Skynet..
How cool is this? ->
Cooler Master Centurion 590 (RC-590)
Or maybe a somewhat classier model:
Cooler Master CM 690
By the way: The Antec P182 really looks like something from Skynet..
/* Less noise. More signal. */
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- twilight17
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